To get rid of mold, fix the moisture problem that let it grow, then physically remove the growth. Scrub it off hard surfaces with detergent and water, throw out soaked or moldy absorbent materials like carpet and ceiling tiles, and dry everything completely. The EPA says most people can handle an area smaller than about 10 square feet themselves, and that if you clean up mold without fixing the water problem, it will most likely come back. Wear at least an N95 respirator, gloves, and goggles. Bring in a professional for larger areas, hidden mold, HVAC contamination, sewage or floodwater, or if anyone in the home has asthma, allergies, lung disease, or a weakened immune system.
A note on the word "permanently": the earlier version of this page promised to help you get rid of mold for good. No cleaning method can do that on its own. The EPA explains that there is no practical way to eliminate all mold and mold spores indoors, and that the way to control mold growth is to control moisture. Spores are always around. What you can do is keep them from finding a damp place to grow.
Before You Start: Check These First
A few quick questions decide whether this is a weekend cleaning job or something to hand off.
- How big is it? Less than roughly a 3-foot-by-3-foot patch is generally a DIY job, per the EPA. Larger than that, or mold in several rooms, calls for professional help.
- What is it growing on? Mold on tile, glass, metal, sealed countertops, and other hard surfaces can usually be cleaned. Mold in drywall, carpet, ceiling tiles, insulation, and upholstery often means the material has to go.
- Where did the water come from? Clean water from a supply line or condensation is manageable. The EPA says damage from sewage or other contaminated water needs a professional who has experience with contaminated-water cleanup.
- Is it in the heating and cooling system? The EPA advises not running an HVAC system you know or suspect is contaminated, because it could spread mold through the house.
- Who lives here? The CDC recommends that people with mold allergies or sensitivity, asthma, COPD or other chronic lung disease, or a weakened immune system not do the cleanup. It also says people with asthma, COPD, or weakened immunity should not stay in the home while it's being done.
You don't need to know what species you have. The CDC says it isn't necessary to identify the type of mold and that all molds should be treated the same with respect to health risks and removal. For the details on health risk, see what kind of mold is dangerous in a house.
Step 1: Find and Stop the Moisture
Mold removal starts with a repair, not a cleaner. Look for the reason the area stayed wet:
- Leaks from supply lines, drains, water heaters, roofs, flashing, or windows.
- Condensation on cold exterior walls, windows, pipes, and ducts. The EPA suggests adding insulation to reduce condensation on cold surfaces.
- High indoor humidity from showers, cooking, unvented dryers, or a damp basement.
- Drainage problems such as clogged gutters, downspouts that dump next to the foundation, or soil sloping toward the house.
- Past water damage that was only surface-dried.
Your first call may be a plumber, roofer, or HVAC technician rather than a mold company. If you have a fresh leak or flood and no visible mold yet, act fast. The EPA says that in most cases mold won't grow if wet materials are dried within 24 to 48 hours. Our guide on how quickly mold can grow after water damage walks through that window.
Step 2: Protect Yourself
Mold can cause allergic reactions, asthma attacks, and other breathing problems, and cleanup stirs up spores. The CDC and EPA recommend:
- A respirator. At least a NIOSH-approved N95. The CDC says a half-face or full-face respirator is appropriate for bigger jobs, such as tearing out moldy drywall.
- Gloves. Non-latex, vinyl, nitrile, or rubber. The EPA suggests long gloves that reach the middle of the forearm. Don't touch mold or moldy items with bare hands.
- Goggles that fully seal around the eyes. The CDC notes that safety glasses with open vents aren't enough.
- Clothes you can wash right away, plus closed shoes.
If you have health concerns, the EPA advises talking with a health professional before you start.
Step 3: Keep Spores From Spreading
For a small patch, a few simple habits keep the mess contained:
- Open windows for fresh air, as the CDC recommends whenever you're using cleaning products.
- Turn off the HVAC system if the moldy area is near a supply or return vent, so the system doesn't pull in dust and spores.
- Close the door to the room, or hang plastic sheeting over the doorway if you're removing material.
- Bag debris where you work. The EPA's remediation guidance says moldy materials that can't be saved should be double-bagged before they're carried out.
- Don't dry-brush or sand mold. Dry scrubbing throws spores into the air.
Be careful about opening up walls to go looking. The EPA warns that removing wallpaper can release a massive amount of spores if mold is growing on the back side. If you suspect mold inside a wall cavity, under flooring, or behind paneling, that's usually the point to bring in a professional.
Step 4: Clean or Remove the Growth
The method depends on the material.
Hard, non-porous surfaces
Tile, glazed ceramic, glass, metal, plastic, and sealed countertops can usually be cleaned:
- Scrub with detergent and water. This is the EPA's standard recommendation. A stiff brush or non-scratch scrub pad helps on grout and textured surfaces.
- Wipe away the residue with a clean, damp cloth, rinsing the cloth often.
- Dry the surface completely. Use towels, a fan, or a dehumidifier.
The goal is removal, not just killing mold. EPA remediation guidance notes that dead or alive, mold is allergenic, so a stain you've sprayed and walked away from can still cause problems.
Porous and absorbent materials
The EPA says absorbent materials such as ceiling tiles and carpet may have to be thrown away if they become moldy, because mold can grow on or fill in the empty spaces and crevices of porous materials and be difficult or impossible to remove completely. After a flood, the CDC's guidance on mold cleanup is blunt: anything that was wet with floodwater and can't be cleaned and dried completely within 24 to 48 hours should be taken out.
Materials that usually need to go when they're moldy or were soaked for more than a couple of days include:
- Carpet and carpet padding
- Drywall and wallboard
- Ceiling tiles
- Insulation
- Mattresses, pillows, and upholstered furniture
- Stuffed animals, paper, and books
Cut drywall back past the stained area, bag the pieces as you remove them, and let the wall cavity dry before replacing anything. Mold on solid wood framing or furniture can sometimes be scrubbed and dried, but deep staining, soft or crumbling wood, or a large area is a job for a professional.
Final cleanup
Once everything is dry, the EPA recommends a HEPA vacuum for the final cleanup of the work area. Wipe nearby surfaces with a damp cloth, and wash your work clothes. Toss disposable gloves and respirators.
What Not to Do
- Don't paint or caulk over mold. The EPA says to clean up the mold and dry the surface before painting. Paint over live growth will peel and the mold will keep growing.
- Don't mix bleach with other cleaners. The CDC warns that bleach mixed with ammonia or other cleansers produces a poisonous gas. Many glass and multi-surface cleaners contain ammonia.
- Don't rely on bleach as the fix. See the next section.
- Don't treat a stain as solved if the wall, ceiling, or floor is still damp or the leak isn't repaired.
- Don't run fans or the furnace blower across active mold while you're disturbing it.
- Don't sniff moldy materials to check whether the smell is gone.
Bleach, Vinegar, and Other Mold Removers
The earlier version of this page told readers to kill mold on hard surfaces with a bleach solution and to treat porous materials such as drywall with borax. Both suggestions need correcting.
Bleach. The EPA says using chlorine bleach or another biocide "is not recommended as a routine practice during mold cleanup." Detergent and water, scrubbing, and drying do the real work. The CDC does allow a bleach solution on hard surfaces. If you use it, the CDC's limit is no more than 1 cup of household laundry bleach in 1 gallon of water. Ventilate the room, never mix it with other products, and follow the label.
Borax, vinegar, and home remedies on drywall. None of these can reliably reach mold that has grown into absorbent material. Following the EPA, the answer for moldy drywall and ceiling tiles is usually removal and replacement, not a spray.
Vinegar can help clean a small patch on a hard surface, but the evidence that it reliably kills household molds is limited. Our guide on whether vinegar kills mold explains what the research does and doesn't show.
Commercial mold products. Follow the label for the surfaces and dwell times the manufacturer lists. A product that kills mold doesn't remove it, so you still need to scrub off the growth and fix the moisture.
Ozone generators aren't a substitute for removal. The EPA says ozone is unlikely to decontaminate the air unless concentrations are high enough to be a health concern for people in the space, and that it may have no effect on contaminants embedded in porous materials. It also doesn't fix the water problem.
When to Call a Professional
Get professional help when:
- The moldy area is larger than about 10 square feet, or there's extensive water damage.
- You suspect hidden mold, such as a musty smell with no visible source, stains that keep coming back, or damage inside walls, under floors, or in an attic or crawl space.
- The HVAC system may be contaminated. The EPA says that if insulated air ducts get wet or moldy, the insulation can't be effectively cleaned and should be removed and replaced. It also warns that if the conditions that caused the growth aren't corrected, the mold will come back.
- Sewage, floodwater, or other contaminated water caused the damage.
- Anyone in the home is at higher risk from mold exposure, or you have health concerns.
- You cleaned it once and it came back, which usually means the moisture source hasn't been found.
It can help to separate the two roles. A mold assessor or indoor environmental consultant figures out where the moisture and growth are and what needs to be done. A remediation contractor does the removal. For suspected hidden mold or a recurring problem, see who to call for a mold inspection.
Choosing a remediation company
The EPA doesn't certify or list mold inspectors or remediation firms, though some states might. It recommends asking about qualifications, training, and experience, and choosing a contractor with mold cleanup experience, checking references, and asking them to follow the EPA's remediation guidance or guidelines from professional groups such as the IICRC or ACGIH. You can also:
- Ask how they will contain the work area and protect the rest of the house.
- Get a written scope that lists what will be removed, cleaned, and replaced, and who is fixing the moisture problem.
- Ask what "done" looks like, such as dry materials, no visible growth or dust, and no musty odor.
- Check your state's licensing rules, since some states regulate mold work and many don't.
- Be cautious if the same company that tests your home also profits from a large remediation job.
For price ranges, see how much mold removal costs.
Do You Need Mold Testing?
Usually not. The CDC does not recommend mold testing, because no standards exist for acceptable amounts of mold and any indoor growth should be removed. The EPA says sampling generally isn't needed when mold is visible, and no federal limits have been set for mold or spores.
An inspection makes more sense when you're trying to find hidden moisture or mold, or when you need a professional to verify that a large remediation job was completed. A home test kit or a lab report won't tell you where the water is coming from.
How to Keep Mold From Coming Back
Prevention is moisture control. The EPA and CDC recommend:
- Keep indoor humidity below 60%, ideally between 30% and 50%, per the EPA. The CDC recommends keeping it as low as you can and no higher than 50%. A basic hygrometer shows the reading. See what humidity level helps prevent mold.
- Dry leaks and spills within 24 to 48 hours. Pull up wet rugs and move soaked items somewhere they can dry.
- Vent moisture outdoors. Run bathroom and kitchen exhaust fans during and after showers and cooking, and make sure the clothes dryer vents outside.
- Use air conditioning or a dehumidifier in humid weather and in damp basements.
- Fix condensation by improving insulation on cold walls, pipes, and ducts.
- Keep water away from the foundation. Clean gutters and extend downspouts.
- Skip carpet in rooms that stay damp, such as basements with moisture problems. The EPA advises against carpeting areas with a perpetual moisture problem.
- Clean bathrooms regularly and dry shower walls, so surface mold doesn't settle into grout and caulk.
When you repair or remodel a damp area, mold-resistant drywall, backer board, and bathroom paints may help, but they don't replace fixing the moisture.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I get rid of mold permanently?
You can remove the growth and keep it from returning, but you can't remove every mold spore from a home. Spores are everywhere, indoors and out. Mold stays gone when the materials around it stay dry.
Is it safe to remove mold myself?
For a small area, generally less than about 10 square feet, most healthy adults can clean it with the right protective gear, according to the EPA. People with asthma, allergies, chronic lung disease, or weakened immune systems shouldn't do the cleanup, the CDC says.
Does bleach kill mold?
Bleach can kill mold on hard surfaces, but the EPA doesn't recommend it as a routine part of mold cleanup, and it doesn't solve mold inside drywall or other absorbent materials. Scrubbing with detergent and water, removing damaged materials, and drying are the main steps. If you use bleach, the CDC says to use no more than 1 cup per gallon of water and never mix it with other cleaners.
Is black mold more dangerous, and should I clean it myself?
The CDC says all molds should be treated the same with respect to health risks and removal, and that there's no need to identify the type. Color doesn't decide whether you can clean it. Size, the surface it's on, the water source, and the health of the people in the home do.
Can I just paint over mold?
No. The EPA says not to paint or caulk moldy surfaces. Clean up the mold and dry the surface first, and replace materials that can't be cleaned.
What should I throw away after mold or water damage?
Absorbent items that are moldy, or that were wet more than 24 to 48 hours and can't be fully cleaned and dried. That commonly includes carpet and padding, drywall, ceiling tiles, insulation, mattresses, upholstered furniture, and paper goods. Hard items like dishes, glass, and metal can usually be cleaned.
Will an air purifier get rid of mold?
Not on its own. An air cleaner works on particles in the air. It can't remove mold growing on a wall, floor, or ceiling, and it doesn't fix the moisture behind it.
Sources
- EPA: A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home — the 10-square-foot guideline, protective gear, detergent and water, porous materials, bleach, painting, hidden mold, sampling, humidity, and drying within 24 to 48 hours.
- EPA: Ten Things You Should Know About Mold — controlling moisture, condensation, and carpet in damp areas.
- EPA: Mold Remediation in Schools and Commercial Buildings, Chapter 3 — biocides, dead mold as an allergen, HEPA vacuuming, and bagging debris.
- EPA: Mold Cleanup in Your Home — HVAC systems, contaminated water, and hiring a contractor.
- EPA: Should You Have the Air Ducts in Your Home Cleaned? — wet or moldy duct insulation and recurring growth.
- EPA: Ozone Generators That Are Sold as Air Cleaners — ozone and biological contaminants.
- EPA: Who can test my home or clean up mold? — certification and choosing a professional.
- CDC: Mold Clean-Up Guidelines and Recommendations — respirators, gloves, goggles, bleach limits, and who shouldn't do the cleanup.
- CDC: Mold — health effects, testing, and humidity.
- CDC: Facts About *Stachybotrys chartarum* — treating all molds the same.
- CDC: 8 Tips to Clean Up Mold — discarding flood-soaked items and drying the home.
